Ostrich Feather Fans: A Practical Guide
The first time ostrich feather fans really caught my attention, it was the movement: that cloud-like sweep as the feathers opened and closed under the stage lights, making the dancer look as though she were being carried by her own shadow. Later, I began to understand why feather fans have become such recognisable objects in burlesque, cabaret and showgirl performance. They are decorative, of course, but they are also an extension of the body. They can create suspense, change a silhouette and say something before the dancer has spoken a word. Choosing a first pair, however, is less simple than the photographs make it look. Size, weight, layers, stave material and care all affect how a fan feels in the hands. This guide brings those questions together in one place—from choosing a pair, to dancing with it, to keeping it in good condition. A Little History: Why the Feather Fan Feels So Sensual Fans made with feathers have a very long history. Ancient Egyptian images and surviving objects show that fans were used for ceremony, status, shade and cooling; Tutankhamun was buried with several fans, including one fitted with ostrich feathers. This does not mean that modern burlesque fan dance descended directly from ancient Egypt, but it does show how long feathers have been used to frame power, movement and display. European fan history also gave rise to the famous idea of a secret “language of the fan.” Nineteenth-century fan makers such as Duvelleroy did publish guides assigning meanings to different gestures. Museum research, however, suggests that there was never one universal code used by everyone. The story was part social game, part satire and part clever marketing—which makes it no less interesting. Even without a fixed code, a fan has always been able to communicate through body language. By the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, ostrich feather fans were being promoted through fashion publications, catalogues and major retailers. They were no longer visible only as rare court objects; they had become part of a wider commercial world of fashion and entertainment. The decisive stage moment came in the 1930s. At Chicago’s 1933 A Century of Progress exposition, Sally Rand performed her famous fan dance to Debussy’s Clair de Lune. Moving a pair of large feather fans in front of and behind her body, she created a game of almost seeing—a carefully controlled illusion rather than simple exposure. Faith Bacon was also performing fan dances during this period, and both women claimed a place in the form’s history. Rather than naming one uncontested inventor, it is more accurate to understand them as two important figures whose competing claims became part of the story of the fan dance. I have come to think that the real heart of fan dancing is not hiding the body. It is controlling the gaze. The performer decides what the audience sees—and exactly when they see it. Know Your Fan: What Is It Made Of? Before choosing a pair, it helps to understand the basic structure. A modern ostrich feather fan usually has three main parts: Staves: the rigid pieces that spread from the base and give the fan its shape. Acrylic and aluminium are common in modern performance fans; bamboo is also used by some makers. Feathers: attached to the staves with wire, ties or another fixing method. Their length, placement and number create the fan’s coverage and fullness. Pivot bolt: the point that holds the staves together. Its tension changes how easily the fan opens, closes or stays in position. One of the first terms you will meet is layer count. A single-layer fan has a lighter, more transparent appearance. A double-layer fan gives fuller coverage. A triple-layer fan creates more volume, but also adds weight and air resistance. There is no single construction standard followed by every maker, so the exact result depends on more than the number of layers. Feather length, stave count, opening angle and placement also matter. Still, for many beginners who want enough coverage for classic conceal-and-reveal movement, a well-balanced double-layer fan is a practical place to begin. Feathers are made mainly from keratin, the same broad family of material found in hair and nails. But this does not mean a finished fan behaves like a sponge. Undamaged feathers have some natural resistance to water. The greater risk is that a completed fan combines dyed feathers, staves and attachment materials, which may react differently to water, heat or humidity. That is why care advice should consider the whole fan, not the feather alone. Choosing Your First Pair: Five Things to Consider 1. Layers Single-layer fans are lighter and show more of the body through the feathers. Triple-layer fans create impressive density, but can become tiring before a beginner has developed the necessary control. A double-layer pair often offers a useful balance of coverage, movement and weight—but the fan’s total construction matters more than the label alone. 2. Size Do not choose by inches alone. Open the fan—or mark out its measurements on paper—and compare the silhouette with your own body. For conceal-and-reveal choreography, it should cover the areas you intend to hide without swallowing your face or restricting every movement. Larger fans can look spectacular from the back of a theatre, but they also need more room and usually create more resistance in motion. A fan that suits a tall stage performer may feel oversized in smaller hands or a more intimate venue. 3. Stave Material Clear acrylic can make the feathers appear to float because the structure becomes less visible. It is also available in many colours and shapes. Aluminium can create a slimmer closed profile and a more defined structural feeling in the hand. Bamboo is used by some makers for its traditional look and flexibility, although the finish should always be checked carefully. No material is automatically best. Thickness, edge finishing, pivot design and the shape of the stave all affect comfort and durability. 4. How the Feathers Are Attached Wire can create a discreet, low-profile finish. Ties can make some repairs and feather replacement more straightforward. What matters most is whether the attachment is secure, whether individual feathers can be replaced and whether the maker can explain how the fan should be maintained. If you are buying two fans for two-handed choreography, also make sure you are ordering a proper left-and-right pair rather than two fans made in the same direction. 5. Colour My honest advice is not to choose white only because it seems “safe.” Choose a colour that makes you want to create a costume and build a performance around it. Lighting still matters. Against a dark backdrop, black feathers may lose their edge; pale feathers usually reflect more light. That does not make white better than black. It simply means that colour should be considered together with the costume, background and lighting design. If possible, test the fans under stage light rather than judging them only in daylight or from a product photograph. Styles and Types: More Than One Kind of Beauty Classic fans often use natural tones, black, white or a single strong colour for an old-Hollywood or showgirl effect. Contemporary makers also work with gradients, contrasting colours and mixed feather lengths. Waterfall fans use long, flowing feathers that fall beyond the staves. When opened, they create a dramatic wall of movement. They are beautiful, but their length and resistance can make them more demanding, so they are not always the easiest first pair. Different feathers bring different characters as well. Peacock feathers create iridescent eye patterns and a strong decorative surface. Marabou is soft and fluffy and works well for close, delicate movement. The choice of feather is really a choice about the atmosphere of the act. Getting Started: From Practice to the Stage The first thing I would tell a beginner is simple: do not begin with the largest waterfall fans you can find. Start with a pair you can control, then move into larger or denser fans once you understand how your hands, forearms and shoulders respond. A few practical habits make a real difference: Practise slowly: learn how the fan opens, closes and changes direction before trying to move quickly. Use a mirror or video: concealment needs to be checked from the audience’s point of view, not only from behind the fan. Let the feathers finish the movement: the staves may stop first, while the feather edge continues for another moment. That soft delay is part of the beauty. Work with the music: use strong beats for emphasis, melody for flow and silence for stillness. Movement should feel intentional. Warm up and build gradually: heavier fans require endurance. Stop if you feel persistent pain rather than treating it as something to push through. Check the space: long feathers need clearance from lights, scenery, ceilings and nearby performers. Care: Helping Your Fans Last Ostrich feather fans can remain beautiful for years when they are handled carefully. The simplest rule is to protect them from crushing, prolonged dampness, strong heat and light, dirt, and insects. Bringing Back the Fullness Feathers can look flat after shipping or storage. Begin gently: open the fan in a dry, ventilated room, let it rest, then give it a light shake. Cool airflow can help separate the feather fibres. Many makers and performers also use steam, but it should not be treated as a universal rule. Dyes, adhesives, attachments and stave materials vary. If the maker confirms that steam is suitable, use only a light, dispersed mist of steam, keep water droplets away from the feathers and allow the fan to dry completely before packing it again. Do Not Soak a Finished Fan A finished fan should not be soaked or washed unless its maker has confirmed that every material is suitable. Dyed feathers may bleed, and water can affect attachment points or other components. If something is spilled, blot the surface gently without rubbing, keep differently coloured feathers apart and ask the maker for advice before attempting a deeper clean. Storage and Travel Make sure the fan is completely dry before storing it. Use a protective fan bag or supported box with enough room to avoid crushing the feathers. Do not place costumes, shoes or hard accessories on top of the fan. Keep it away from direct sunlight, heaters, hot cars, perfume and hairspray. Check the pivot, attachments and feather shafts before travelling. Inspect stored fans periodically for carpet beetles, clothes moths or signs of damage. Plastic is not automatically harmful, and a “breathable” bag is not automatically protective. The important points are that the fan is dry, supported, protected from dust and given enough space. Moisture sealed inside any enclosure can cause problems. A Final Thought While writing this, I kept returning to the same idea: the most fascinating thing about an ostrich feather fan is the way it turns control into an aesthetic. You hold the switch between what the audience sees and what it does not. The fan can finish a line, interrupt it, hide a body or make its return feel more powerful. That is why choosing a pair is not only a question of colour or size. It is a question of how you want to move—and how you want to be seen. Start with a fan you can control. Choose a colour that gives you ideas. Learn its weight, make care part of the routine, and let it become more than a prop. In time, it begins to move as part of your own stage language. Sources and Further Reading The Metropolitan Museum of Art — “Fans of The Met” The Metropolitan Museum of Art — “The Language of the Fan” Chicago History Museum — “The Rand is Quicker Than the Eye” Smithsonian Libraries — Souvenir Ostrich Feather Catalogue, 1909 Leslie Zemeckis — Feuding Fan Dancers Canadian Conservation Institute — Caring for Feathers and Other Keratinous Materials Food and Agriculture Organization — “Recent Developments in Ostrich Farming”